The past more present than ever

The history of fashion has been nurtured by the legacy of great creative directors who have broken barriers to allow space for an evolution of design to take place. Unlike women, men traditionally have limited themselves to a two-piece suit with a white shirt, typically combined with accessories such as ties, bow ties or handkerchiefs for gala outfits. However, in the relatively recent years, clothing brand collections and red-carpet appearances evidently have shown a timid experimental tendency with new combinations, materials and garments that seem to have sought references in the ‘80s and ‘90s in order to try to break the established norms. Nevertheless, beyond the extravagant designs, there is also a renewal or ‘upcycle’ of the classics, which become new trends and adapt to the prevailing aesthetic.

 

The pinstripe suit is the most prominent trend in men's fashion. What has been the most traditional attire of a man’s wardrobe is now surely converted to one of the most radically fashionable bets of the season. Over the years, stripes have been reinterpreted in countless ways and used on many other garments besides suits. Regardless of style, colour and fabric type, it never fails to evoke a sense of refinement, influence, and swagger. For the more conservative, stripes are a great way to step out of their comfort zone. It is more discreet than other pattern options, yet what’s worth noticing is that there is significant detailing in the making. The spacing between the stripes can vary and when it comes to colours the stripes are generally laid out on a dark black, navy blue or charcoal grey fabric with a lighter shade, usually white, for the fine stripes. These colours are perfect to use at work, in an office environment especially for their professional look and a touch of personal style. If you want to keep the classic look, wear your pinstripe suit with a matching basic black, navy or grey tie.

The crossbar motif has always been there; it has never disappeared just keeps getting reformed. Only in a century of fashion history, has it become undoubtedly one of the classics that are already a trend again! Firms such as Alexander McQueen, Versace, Maison Margiela, Dior and Off-White are some of those that have used this print in their latest collections while it has simultaneously reached massive brands such as Zara or Massimo Dutti, which are the ones that they legitimize trends in the streets.

The chronicle of tailoring dates back to the 19th century in London, where banks used striped trousers to identify their workers. Then stripes came to the United States in the 1920s and 1930s and became a fabric pattern that was used for both trousers and suits as well as vests. Since then, pinstripe suits have come a long way, represented by famous figures such as Winston Churchill and infamous mobsters like Al Capone. They re-emerged as the go-to uniform for the Wall Street bankers of the 1980s, as well as for “The Wolf of Wall Street” on the big screen. History has not earned it very positive connotations, hence when we see pinstripes, we immediately think of the gangster cliché. However, what has indeed changed is how, in recent times, we perceive concepts such as "mafia", "power" and "tailoring" which have started to be portrayed fashionista-like differently and cooler, with the latter being why brands are now reimagining this classic pattern.

Stripes are not reserved for professionals and special events only; they could also be used in more informal moments. Try light-coloured striped pants with a shirt or a sweater, worn with loafers or even sneakers for the brave, for a laid-back take on the classic style. It's hard to go wrong with stripes; its long narrative has firmly established its urban image as it only reinforces the current appeal making it perfect for today's versatile men. I would say this particular pinstripe suit I am wearing is classy but more contemporary than the average suits out there with this print. The short-length trousers and belted blazer with rounded lapels make it fresher and trendier accompanied by a beautiful, silk shirt with an old atlas map print on it. In this way, I don´t need to wear a tie or any sort of extra accessory and I love the combination of the two prints together. I am wearing smart, black-and-brown shoes adding some extra colour to the outfit. The grey wool coat is merely the perfect choice for practically any style and this time of the year, and I am wearing it with a black pouch matching the leather gloves.

Zara coat, Pull & Bear cardigan, Tommy Hilfiger shirt, Harry Potter Slytherin tie, Uniqlo jeans, Zara sneakers, Vivianne Westwood pouch, Collusio scarf,  leather market gloves, Wolfnoir sunglasses

Photos by: Evan Baul 

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Web: evanbaul.co.uk