We are quite clear on how fashion tends to be cyclical
and trends that have caused a furore in the past often come back recharged to
find new followers. If there is a style that has become a fashion classic, it
is navy-related designs, which find their inspiration in the aesthetics of the
high seas and sailing. Striped shirts, navy blue and red elements, anchor
prints, sailor hats, coats with gold buttons, shorts are all key garments in
the DNA of the nautical style. You do not have to be the captain of a ship or
the owner of a yacht to look fashionable both on the high seas and on dry land.
Nautical fashion is characterised by being fresh, comfortable, and natural,
which is why it has a safe place in every fashionista's wardrobe. It always
works, it's always in style, and there's always a good excuse to return to it.
Like many of today's trends, the navy style has an evident
military influence from the past centuries. The origins of this trend go back
to 1837, the year in which Queen Victoria of England was crowned, the so-called
Victorian era that meant an expansion of the power of the British Empire in the
political, social, and consequently the military sphere. At that time, the
foundation of the British Naval Army was established, for which a uniform had
to be created to make a more notable distinction between the professional
clothing of a sailor and of a fisherman. It was the captain of the ship H.M.S
Blazer, who uniformed the sailors with a blue jacket combined with white and
silver or gold buttons, and which was designated as a naval uniform at the
request of the queen. Flat colours were reserved for Marine Officers, while lower ranking sailors wore blue
and white striped shirts so they could be seen in case they fell overboard. But
the British weren't the only ones reinventing naval uniforms. In 1858 and
during the Second French Empire, the French Navy established the uniform for
its sailors: wide-booted trousers, a white shirt with a blue collar, a short
wool coat and a striped sweater. The designs were to have 21 stripes, one for
each victory of Napoleon Bonaparte.
And how did the naval uniform come into street
fashion? This is undoubtedly one of the legacies of the great Gabrielle
"Coco" Chanel. The designer discovered the uniforms after a visit to
the French coast, and immediately decided to incorporate the trend into women's
outfits, bringing stripes to her 1917 nautical collection. A risky move of
wearing male worker’s clothing as the attire of the bourgeois woman of that time.
But she was not the only one. Decades later, great fashion designers such as
Yves Saint Laurent, Vivienne Westwood, and Jean Paul Gaultier would take the
sailor style as inspiration for their collections with the latter being the
greater ambassador of the trend today.
I am wearing a navy sailor jumper. A distinctively, felt-like,
vintage top with a V-neck and laces, a large tar flap falling
down the back and the symbol of an anchor on the arms in red. I broke it up wearing
a white shirt and a silk tie in blue with thin diagonal stripes. The stone
colour tailored trousers and the burgundy/grey leather brogues keep the uniform-y
style intact. The multicoloured, stripy socks, however, add more tones to the
look making it more fun and relaxed. I am wearing a military-like, navy trench
coat clasped with a leather belt in the same colour. The little pouch in navy
and grey is the last touch that completes my nautical look.
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