During
the course of the history of fashion, there have been garments and trends that can
instantly be connected to certain eras and social classes. Time proved that
fashion brands were able to extract the original connotative meaning from those
to adapt a new, much broader symbology that is in keeping with the current. We
have seen them all our lives in our grandparents' wardrobe and possibly in our very
own too, forced to wear when we were little. I’m talking about the filthy-rich college,
Hollywood aesthetic (personal favourite) being one of the most distinctive representatives
of preppy style. Its return brought back some of the most iconic trends with
it, the argyle* sweater, yet in a totally different way. While the said is
staging a comeback into our wardrobe, it breaks away from its well-known strict/refined
aesthetic with much more oversized and casual designs that take us away from
the classic looks we were used to seeing. Phoebe Waller-Bridge and Harry Styles
know how to contribute to this shift! The latter, has proven he knows how to
pull it off in his music video, “Treat people with kindness”, in which he
appears wearing diamond-patterned vests signed by Gucci. Records showed that
the styling in the video-clip triggered interest in garments with this pattern
by 39% more than the previous month. Similarly, to others, there aren’t rules about
how to wear this type of garment, but this season its versatility suggests that
we play with high contrasts and risky combinations yet always go with what you
feel most comfortable.
The
rhombus sweater is a piece that in the 70s marked a milestone and was also an
emblem of various social groups such as the so-called 'snobs', the 'nerds', and
then the clumsily early attempts for an introduction to colour and pattern in men’s
‘office' style. For a time, these strong associations made many people hate
this motif, but the truth is that currently there is neither a local clothing
store or big fashion brand, or a wardrobe for that matter, that does not have
it on its shelves. The wool sweater with the unmissable print has championed a
multitude of causes ever since it was created in the west of Scotland in the
17th century as a transformed alternative of the popular tartan. In the 1920s
it graced golfers, led by the Duke of Windsor, and in the 1950s and 1960s it
was paired with khaki parkas to outfit stylish members of the mod** subculture.
While the English youth revolt was taking place, the diamonds or rhombuses travelled
to the United States to acquire new purposes.
To keep
it up to date, avoiding it look as though it jumped straight out of 1976 it's
best to keep in mind this friendly advice: There are combinations they work
one day work and then they just don’t anymore. That’s fashion for you right
there. This has been the case for the corduroy and the rhombus jersey together
for example. Separately, they were two essential trends this past fall, but
together they represent an unnecessary trip to the past. Try denim, wool, or
cotton. Don't be afraid of ‘extreme’ combinations. Moreover, the more
exaggerated they are, the more they’ll reflect this era. But(!) forget about the checks pattern if you
don't want to look like an interpretation of its Scottish origins. Dare a pinstripe,
the Prince of Wales (Glen plaid) or animal print even. There are firms that
have not exhaustively followed the trend, allowing this “diamond” print to take
on other geometric shapes.
My choice
was moderate but fresh. I
am wearing a rhombus print; a navy, knitted vest tucked in the pleated trousers
in contrast with the red and white of the geometrical figures. This went with a
blue, Oxford shirt and a navy bandana inside the lapel. The double-breasted
blazer in beige gives some contrast to the outfit with matching Derby shoes. A beige tartan print in the vamp
of the shoe reinforced with tan leather on the toe and heel cap matched the
pouch creating a smart and sophisticated look. The vintage watch in the same
leather colour along with the details in gold goes beautifully with the classic
Raybans which complete the look.
*The Argyle, which usually refers to that pattern of
rhombuses on which lines are superimposed that create the same geometric
figure, giving a sensation of a certain three-dimensionality and texture, is a
derivative of the famous Scottish tartan. The print became very fashionable in
Great Britain and the United States after the First World War promoted by the
firm Pringle of Scotland, to which its authorship is attributed, although it is
now used by many brands. The Duke of Windsor, a fan of the pattern, popularised
it at the time, also triggering the brand's fame.
**Mod (from English "modernist") is a
subculture that originated in the late 1950s in London and rest of England
reaching its peak in the early to mid-1960s. Its sophistication defined the
youth revolt of that era. The "mods" were middle-class boys who
dressed impeccably, since they were tailor´s sons, so they had access to
clothing and trends. They showed an interest in new fashions, such as tailored
Italian suits, and musical styles such as African-American soul, modern jazz,
and rhythm and blues. You’d often see them on a Scooter, Lambretta or Vespa motorcycle.
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